The origins of sapeurism go back to 1922 to Andre Grenard Matsoua (1899-1942), a Congolese intellectual. While working for the French army, he lived in Paris. Upon his first return to Congo, he wore the finest of French couture. This made a huge impact on his fellow countrymen. Therefore he is believed to be the first Grand Sapeur. Sapeurs are especially attracted to the city of Paris, as it is considered to be the ultimate fashion capital. The phenomenon of the sapeur is predominantly male. However, female sapeurs can increasingly be found during evening meetings in the local bars of the sapeurs. They are often wives or girlfriends of male sapeurs. Important in sapeurism is the financial aspect. Sapeurs have to save every penny before they can buy a new item for their wardrobe. It thus becomes an even greater object of desire, which they cannot wait to show the outside world. Sapeurs all have the same dream: to go to Paris and return to their country of origin as an aristocrat of ultimate elegance. Because of globalisation and immigration, French fashion is no longer the only source of elegance the sapeurs use. Increasingly other fashion traditions influence sapeurism and the notions of style and elegance. An interesting example which was also photographed by Daniele Tamagni is that of the so-called Picadilly Group. This group is initiated by sapeur Ferol Ngouabi in 2001, inspired by Prince Charles wearing a kilt. In 2010 the group has fifteen members and twelve of them wear kilts on a daily basis. Family members of these sapeurs live in Great Britain and send them originally “made in England” clothing on a regular basis. As it is stated by one of the sapeurs, Ben Munkasha Monama le Mbouela, sapeurism is a unique point of view which updates according to the times. A latest update is the development of the clothing lable Connivences by Armel le Bachelor. Being a manager in the Parisian Daniel Hecter Boutique for six years, Armel started this label in 1998 as he felt the Congolese sapeurs were highly dependent on foreign fashion labels. This label is to represent the Congolese point of view on fashion and sapeurism. His store is located in Paris and is growing in popularity amongst the Congolese community here. With this, Armel transforms his passion into work, the sapeurism into the fashion world, and earning a living by means of this new tradition.

The basis of the exhibition in the Fund Gallery is formed by the photographs of Daniele Tamagni, which were discovered during preparations for the second edition of the Prince Claus Fund Library Publication The Art of African Fashion (to be launched in 2011). The Prince Claus Fund Gallery was interested in hosting an exhibition around the photographs and the phenomenon of sapeurism. In the meantime a cooperation with the Amsterdam Fund of the Arts was established to produce an international art programme. The notions of sapeurism fitted well within this programme and in addition to the exhibition a range of activities were organized.

These activities included a film screening, a debate and a fashion battle. The film was called The Importance of being Elegant, by George Amponsah and Cosima Spender. The reference to British culture is apparent, and in this film music also plays in important role.  The Congolese rumba pop star Papa Wemba is seen by many as the king of the sapeurs. His clothing style is followed and worshipped by many, resulting in a sub-culture of a continuous search for second-hand clothing and having family members abroad shipping clothing of fashionable brands.

To elaborate upon the topic of the exhibition, this film and the point of view it shows on being an immigrant in contemporary Europe, the International Art in Amsterdam programme organized a debate. During this debate professor Peter Geschiere (Anthropologist, University of Amsterdam), Prof. Justin-Daniel Gandoulou (Author of Dandies a Bacongo : Le culte de l’elegance dans la societe Congolaise contemporaine (1989)) and Francio Guadeloupe (researcher in Anthropology and Development Studies) discussed the paradoxes of sapeurism. The extremely wealthy clothing against a background of poverty is a sore point in the eyes of many. However, this clothing is a means of developing and presenting an identity, which is of utmost importance in deprived circumstances, to provide for a sense of belonging and a sense of future.

After sapeurism was discussed at length during this evening, it was time to see the actual clothing and attitudes on real sapeurs. In the context of the Amsterdam International Fashion Week (14-18 July 2010) and in cooperation with MAFB, a true fashion battle was organized in the Amsterdam MC Theatre. In three rounds male and female sapeurs showed garments from their own wardrobes. The rounds were thematic, the first showed clothing which the sapeurs wore in their country of origin, the second what they wore when they first arrived in their new country, and the third what they wear upon arrival in their country of origin. The show received enormous attention in the Dutch press and the theatre where the Fashion Battle was taking place was at full capacity. The audience was enthusiastic and the jury decided upon a winner at the end of the evening. This was the second generation sapeur Yannick Landu, who had developed his own style from classic sapeur principles combined with contemporary influences. The sapeurs involved in the fashion battle were Gerold Angelista (Curacao), Tshesko Bila (Congo-Kinshasa), Matondo Watondo (Congo-Kinshasa), Nassim Munyaburiza (F. Rwanda-Kigali), Dorkas Tjin A Tak (F. Amsterdam), Gebi Seedorf (F. Suriname-Ghana), Zakouloulou Ndongo Fulgence (France), Stella Olowa (Congo-Kinshasa), Laurindo Andrea (Curacao), and Yannick Landu (Congo-Kinshasa). The jury consisted of Willa Stoutenbeek (PR-professional), Anneke Beerkens (drs. In Anthropology), Daniele Tamagni (Photographer) and Aziz Bekkaoui (Fashion Designer). The battle was directed by Felix de Rooij.

Sapeurs have adopted their interpretation of fashion as a religion. Therefore it is appropriate to conclude with the ten commandments of the Sape:

1)  You will be Sape with men on earth and God in heaven

2) You will not sit down

3) You will honour the Sape wherever you will be

4) The roads of Sapology are impenetrable to he who does not know the trilogy of colours

5) You will wear ngaya, the mbendes, the tchidongo on earth, sea and sky

6) You will maintain a strict hygiene with both clothes and body

7) You will not be a racist, tribalist or discriminate

8) You will not be violent or arrogant

9) Still to be written

10) still to be written

The Prince Claus Fund researches and analyses beauty in various environments and circumstances. The concept of beauty is indefinable, yet appealing to every individual. In international circles it is often considered to be elitist and undemocratic, as it is so culturally and socially related. However, the feelings connected to experiencing beauty are crucial in people’s daily lives. Therefore one of the Prince Claus Fund’s major themes is titled Beauty in Context. Because in the most challenging and complicated circumstances, beauty can still be of defining importance. 

Congo, 2010, Sapeurs, Prince Claus Fund Gallery, Exhibition, Debate, Daniele Tamagni, Fashion Battle, MAFB, Fashion, Designers,